Materials Needed
PVC Pipes
4 horizontal top pipes (with holes for garlic)
4 vertical legs (stand support)
4 horizontal cross braces (stability)
PVC elbows and connectors
Foam plugs or net cups (to hold garlic clumps upright)
Water tub/reservoir with lid
Submersible pump
Small sticks/bamboo skewers (optional, extra support)
Level/spirit level
Measuring spoons for nutrients
Step 1: Prepare PVC Pipes
Drill holes in top pipes (~4–6 inches apart) for garlic clumps.
Set a slight downward slope (1–2% drop) so water drains naturally.
Step 2: Build the Stand
Attach 4 vertical legs to support top pipes.
Add 4 horizontal cross braces to stabilize legs.
Make sure top pipes are above the water tub for drainage.
Step 3: Set Up Water Reservoir
Place water tub below the stand.
Fill with water or nutrient solution.
Place submersible pump inside.
Cover with a lid, leaving a small refill opening.
Step 4: Connect Pump to Pipes
Pump pushes water into one end of top PVC pipe.
Water flows gently through pipes under garlic roots.
Other end of pipes drains back to the reservoir, forming a closed loop.
Step 5: Plant Garlic
Place garlic clumps in foam plugs/net cups.
Insert into pipe holes; roots hang in water.
Shoots grow above pipes.
Optional: small sticks for extra support if shoots are tall.
Step 6: Nutrient Solution (Per Liter of Water)
Tips:
Mix nutrients thoroughly before filling pipes.
Refresh solution every 2–3 weeks.
Top up water when it evaporates.
For faster leaf growth, slightly increase NPK, keeping balance.
Step 7: Check Water Flow
Turn on pump and ensure:
Smooth water flow through all pipes
Water reaches all roots, drains back to reservoir
No pooling or stagnant water
Step 8: Harvesting & Maintenance
Cut top 2–3 inches of shoots for cooking; leave 1–2 inches for regrowth.
Change or refresh nutrient solution every 2–3 weeks.
Monitor plant health (green leaves = healthy, yellow or burnt tips = adjust nutrients).
Keep system in bright indirect light.
Step 9: Optional Improvements
Add more top pipes for extra yield.
Stack levels if space allows.
Use gentle, adjustable pump flow for optimal oxygenation.
✅ Outcome
Continuous supply of green garlic shoots for cooking.
Healthy roots in flowing, nutrient-rich water.
Stable, easy-to-maintain PVC structure.
🏗️ The Indoor Hydroponic Blueprint
1. The Light System (The "Artificial Sun")
Light Type: Full-Spectrum White LED (5000K–6500K).
The "Sweet Spot" Height: * Seedling Stage: Hang the light 12–18 inches above the pipes.
Growth Stage: As the green shoots grow, maintain a distance of 6–10 inches from the tips of the leaves.
The Rule: LEDs are "cool," but if the leaf tips feel crunchy or turn brown, raise the light by 2 inches. If the plant looks "stretchy," lower it by 2 inches.
2. The Irrigation (The "Smart Watering")
The 15-Minute Rule: Use a digital timer to run the pump for 15 minutes ON, then 45 minutes OFF.
The Reservoir: Use a Heavy Duty Black Tote. It must be light-proof. If you use a clear one, the LED lights will turn your water into an "algae soup" within a week.
Oxygenation: Add an aquarium air stone to the bottom of the tote. This keeps the water "fizzy" with oxygen even when the pump is off.
3. The "Winter Trick" (Vernalization)
The Fridge Prep: Place individual unpeeled cloves in a paper bag. Keep them in the crisper drawer of your fridge for 4–8 weeks before planting.
Why: Without this "cold snap," your garlic will just grow green leaves and never divide into a multi-clove bulb.
4. Apartment Climate Control
Airflow: Place a small USB desk fan on a low setting nearby. This prevents "damping off" (a fungus that kills the stem) and mimics the outdoor breeze.
Temperature: Try to keep the room between 15°C and 22°C (60°F–72°F). Garlic hates being right next to a heater or radiator.